Toledo (EFE).- Atrio (Cáceres) and Cocina Hermanos Torres (Barcelona) rise to the Olympus of three Michelin stars, the highest distinction that the guide has not awarded in Spain since 2020, with which there are already 13 three-starred restaurants, to which that add three new ones with two stars and 29 that premiere the first one.
The third ‘brightness’ was not awarded to two restaurants since the 2018 edition -Aponiente (El Puerto de Santa María, Cádiz) and ABaC (Barcelona)- and it was Cenador de Amós (Villaverde de Pontones, Cantabria), the last three-starred in the one of 2020.
The Michelin Guide Spain and Portugal 2023, presented this Tuesday in Toledo with a performance by Rozalén included, also includes the awarding of the second star to Deessa (Madrid), Pepe Vieira (Serpe, Pontevedra) and El Rincón de Juan Carlos (Adeje, Tenerife ), and the first for 29 restaurants, many of them run by young people who have taken risks with projects in their small towns.
Catalonia, thanks to Barcelona, is the community most recognized by Michelin, followed by Madrid, compared to the scarce presence of the Basque Country or the null presence of the Valencian Community, protagonists in previous editions.
Atrio was a third-star favorite for many years for many gourmets, although it came to the present day for another reason: the theft in 2021 of 45 exclusive bottles from its cellar valued at 1.6 million euros. With the alleged authors arrested and without recovering the wine, Toño Pérez (kitchen) and José Polo (sommelier) have at least received the compensation of the highest distinction from the Michelin Guide.
Both opened Atrio in 1986, although their growth came in 2010 with their transfer to a building in the historic center of Cáceres where they combine a kitchen with the Iberian pig as the protagonist, one of the best wineries in the world and a hotel with an important art collection. contemporary.
Known by the general public thanks to television, the brothers Javier and Sergio Torres have built their “ship of dreams” in 800 square meters that they define as a “kitchen with tables”.
Cocina Hermanos Torres is, according to Michelin, a “magical space” where “the gastronomic experience, which travels from consistency through the best seasonal products, exceeds the diner’s expectations to become a great show.”
With these two new additions, Spain has 13 restaurants with three Michelin stars, as they join Akelarre, Arzak, Quique Dacosta, DiverXO, ABaC, Martín Berasategui, El Celler de Can Roca, Lasarte, Azurmendi, Aponiente and Cenador de Amós .
With the second brilliance in Deessa there are seven accumulated by the Extremaduran by birth and Valencian by adoption Quique Dacosta. In 2021 he signed as gastronomic director of the renovated Mandarin Oriental Ritz Hotel in Madrid and in just 18 months he has made a career in the Michelin Guide with a cuisine that mixes its Mediterranean with the cuisine of the capital and that has Guillermo Chávez in the kitchen.
The inspectors traveled from luxury to a small village in Pontevedra to give the second star to the Pepe Vieira restaurant, where Xosé Cannas has created “a truly unique space in the middle of the countryside, with marked avant-garde lines.”
The trio El Rincón de Juan Carlos completes, in which the brothers Juan Carlos and Jonathan Padrón “review the Canarian recipe book from a creative point of view”.
Spain continues to grow with 29 novelties in this category, in which the international director of the Michelin Guides, Gwendal Poullennec, has highlighted the role of young chefs who “take the lead and embark on their own journeys, in many cases flying the flag of regional or fusion cuisines reinterpreted».
They debut with a star Ababol (Albacete), Ajonegro (Logroño), Aleia (Barcelona), AlmaMater (Murcia), Alquimia-Laboratorio (Valladolid), Ancestral (Illescas, Toledo), ARREA! (Santa Cruz de Campezo, Álava), Ceibe (Ourense), Cobo Evolución (Burgos), Código de Barra (Cádiz), COME by Paco Méndez (Barcelona), Ferpel (Ortiguera, Asturias), Fusión19 (Muro, Mallorca) and People Rare (Zaragoza).
Also Kaleja (Málaga), La Finca (Loja, Granada), Mont Bar (Barcelona), Monte (San Feliz, Asturias), Montia (San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid), Oba (Casas-Ibáñez, Albacete), O’ Pazo (Padrón, A Coruña), San-Hô (Adeje, Tenerife), Slow & Low (Barcelona), Tabaiba (Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Las Palmas), Ugo Chan (Madrid) and Zuara Sushi (Madrid).
In this category, it should be noted that Dabiz Muñoz, from the three-star DiverXO, triumphs with his new RavioXO in Madrid, while Albert Adrià returns to stardom with Enigma (Barcelona) and Martín Berasategui, the chef with a record of 12 Michelin stars, makes up for the loss due to closing of eMe Be Garrote in San Sebastián for the one achieved in Etxeko Ibiza (Es Canar, Ibiza).
AWARDS, GREEN STARS AND BIB GOURMAND
The Chef Mentor award goes to Joan Roca, who has trained multiple chefs at El Celler de Can Roca (Girona) and has promised to “continue sharing knowledge for many more years”, and premieres the Toni Gerez room service award, of Castell Peralada (Peralada, Girona), with which his “magnificent exercise” as room manager and sommelier is recognized.
Cristóbal Muñoz, from Almería, is recognized as Young Chef. At the age of 32, he proposes “creative and innovative cuisine capable of moving people” in Ambivium (Peñafiel, Valladolid).
Thirteen new green stars for sustainability show the “growing and notable commitment to a more sustainable gastronomic approach” of Spanish chefs, according to Poullennec.
For this reason, Ambivium (Peñafiel), ARREA! (Santa Cruz de Campezo), Cancook (Zaragoza), Casa Nova (Sant Martí Sarroca, Barcelona), Casona del Judío (Santander), El Visco (Fuentespalda, Teruel), Casa Nova (Sant Martí Sarroca, Barcelona), Les Moles ( Ulldecona, Tarragona), Maskarada (Lekunberri, Navarra), Muxgo (Las Palmas de Gran Canaria), Narbasu (Cereceda, Asturias), Oba (Casas-Ibáñez), Venta Moncalvillo (Daroca de Rioja, La Rioja) and Zelai Txiki (San Sebastian).
In addition, the Bib Gourmand selection that rewards the best value for money already has 243 proposals, incorporating 31 establishments.
LOSS OF STAR
They only occur in the category of one and correspond to Estany Clar, in Cercs (Barcelona), Trivio (Cuenca), Mirador de Ulía (San Sebastián), Cebo (Madrid) and Kabuki (Madrid), to which are added due to closures that of eMe Be Garrote (Donostial) and Auga e Sal (Santiago de Compostela).
In total, the Michelin Guide includes in 2023 for Spain 13 restaurants with three stars, 34 with two, 203 with one, 39 with a green star, 243 Bib Gourmand and 736 establishments recommended for the quality of their cuisine.
By Pilar Salas